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In this instructable, I'll be showing you 4 ways to finish epoxy wood projects. In addition, I'll show you how to apply each finish and how I decide which to use. There are several things that will be difficult to explain with words and images, so be sure to check out the Youtube video above!

Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Why did I include 4 finishes rather than 1? When it comes to finishes, one-size-fits-all does not apply. These finishes cover the variety of requirements requested from my clients. Furthermore, each finish provides my clients with options if they are not sure which finish to choose for their wood and resin table.

So, keep reading. In short, I use it as often as I can except on exterior projects. RMC oil plus 2c comes in 2 cans stacked on top of one another. The larger can is the oil and the shorter can is activator. Keep in mind, you can use the oil without the activator, but it takes much longer to cure. Due to its advanced molecular bonding technology, it only requires a single layer.

Epoxy resin safety precautions – How to use epoxy resin safely

As a quick tip, I sand up to grit before applying rubio monocoat oil plus 2c. I think grit is fine for flooring, but a table top needs to be sanded higher than grit — especially an epoxy river table top. Rubio monocoat oil plus 2c is available in 40 standard colors plus multiple trend colors.

I prefer to use Rubio Monocoat without color, but I may use color in future projects to enhance the grain of certain wood species. Although Rubio Monocoat produce many wood finishes for exterior use, oil plus 2c is not one of them. I have learned RMC oil plus 2c has a 2 week shelf life after opening the can if the cans are sealed properly. After mixing, it lasts 6 to 8 hours. To apply rubio monocoat oil plus 2c finish to an epoxy river table, simply mix 3 parts oil to 1 part activator.

To determine the coverage area for rubio monocoat, use 1 ounce per 10 square feet. Keep in mind, porous wood may require more material; however, start with 1 ounce per 10 square feet in order to not waste material.

In order to achieve the proper mixture, I use a measuring syringe. The syringe makes it easy to remove the material from the can without spilling it. Once the surface is completely covered, I allow a bead of oil to drip over the sides and use my hand with nitrile gloves to spread the material.

I allow the finish to sit for roughly 10 minutes to make certain the molecular bond reaction occurs. I wipe off the excess with a rag.

Epoxy Coat A Vanity

I try to remove as much excess with the rag in a 10 to 15 minute time interval.Expect delays with your order. We're shipping as fast as possible to keep you busy. I want to glass my next board with epoxy, mainly to avoid the stink of PE resin. What's the lowest temp I can glass at? If so, I would just need to purchase the Additive F?

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I love using epoxy, except I'm having fisheye issues on the hot and gloss. Everything I have read says to use your Additive F. Can the epoxy be thinned enough to spray with a regular auto body sprayer? Xylene maybe Also, can a person NOT sand between coats if re-coated within a certain time eg: When soft but not tacky? I have heard that even little bits of dust contamination can prevent epoxy from curing, true? How much xylene in the gloss coat do you add to, let's say ounces RR resin?

I'm also assuming that the normal amount of additive F is added to the mix. With epoxy resin I keep getting " fish eyes" as it is drying.

Also, I repair mostly EPS foam boards. Can use Polyester resin over the epoxy resin once the board is sealed with the epoxy resin? Will hot or cold temps effect application or finish? I know people have used the Additive F with non Resin Research epoxies and have had success. Will the X work with other resins as well? I am planning out glassing a 13' paddle board. I am looking at your 3 gallon kits they all look like fast set pot life. I am new to this. Do you have a slow setting hardener?

I got a 3 gallon kit and the two blue gallons of resin are different shades of blue. Is there something wrong with the resin? I would like know what is the drying time of epoxy?Finish coatings like paint or varnish are applied over an epoxy barrier coat to decorate the surface and protect the epoxy from sunlight.

The finish coating extends the life of the epoxy moisture barrier, which in turn provides a stable base that extends the life of the finish coating. Together the two form a protective system far more durable than either coating by itself. Protection from sunlight is a primary consideration in the selection of a finish coating.

A high gloss finish reflects a higher proportion of the light hitting the surface than a dull surface. All other thing being equal, a white especially a glossy white coating will last the longest. Most types of coatings are compatible with epoxy. Thoroughly cured epoxy is an almost completely inert hard plastic. This means most paint solvents will not soften, swell or react with it.

However, it is still a good idea to build a test panel to assure coating compatibility. Latex paints are compatible with epoxy and they do an adequate job of protecting the epoxy barrier from UV radiation.

Their durability is limited. Alkyd finishes -enamel, alkyd enamel, marine enamel, acrylic enamel, alkyd modified epoxy, traditional varnish and spar varnish-offer ease of application, low cost, low toxicity, and easy availability. Their disadvantages are low UV resistance and low abrasion resistance.

One-part polyurethanes offer easy application, cleanup, and better properties than alkyds. Test first. Epoxy paints are available in one-part and two-part versions. Two-part epoxies offer many characteristics similar to the higher performance polyurethanes.

Two-part linear polyurethane LP paints offer the most durable protection available. LP paints are available as pigmented or clear coatings and offer excellent UV protection, gloss retention, abrasion resistance, plus compatibility with epoxy. However, compared to other types of coatings, they are expensive, require more skill to apply and present a greater health hazard, especially when sprayed.

Bottom paints are available in a variety of formulations. Most bottom paint systems are compatible with epoxy and can be applied directly over a prepared epoxy barrier coat. If you are unsure of compatibility or have curing or adhesion problems with a specific bottom paint, use only a primer recommended for that bottom paint over the barrier coat. Follow the recommendations given for preparation of fiberglass surfaces.

Other paints including marine LPs and primers, are not recommended for use below the waterline. Primers are usually not needed to help a paint film bond to epoxy, although interfacing primers may be required with some specialized bottom paints and high-build primers are useful for hiding scratches or flaws in the substrate.

If the instructions on your paint or varnish recommend a specially primed surface, follow the recommendations given for fiberglass preparation. Polyester gelcoat is a pigmented version of the resin used to build fiberglass boats and other products. Gelcoat is sprayed into a mold before the glass fabric and resin are applied to provide a smooth pre-finished surface when the part is removed from the mold.

It is not often used as a post-production finish coating, but it can be applied over epoxy and is useful in some repair situations. Follow all instructions from the coating systems manufacturer. It is a good idea to make a test panel to evaluate the degree of surface preparation required, and the compatibility and handling characteristics of the finish system.

To help you identify and prevent potential problems associated with using epoxy, go to the Problem Solver. For complete information on the hazards associated with epoxy and the precautions you can take to avoid them, visit our Safety section. Skip to content. Finish coatings protect the epoxy from sunlight. Types of Finish Coatings Latex paints are compatible with epoxy and they do an adequate job of protecting the epoxy barrier from UV radiation.In the past, self-etching primer was the go-to coating to apply over bare metal on a car.

But why use epoxy primer? And what is it, anyway? This non-porous, high-bonding sealer has several advantages when used for certain materials and situations. However, you must be careful about what you apply it to in order to get its full benefits.

We decided to give you some insight on where and when epoxy primer works best. Over Bare, Clean Metal — Epoxy primers are amazing at sealing up bare metal and from allowing moisture or corrosion to creep in. Epoxy primer actually seals out the oxygen from the metal, leaving no chance of rust or corrosion forming on the surface like some cheap spray bomb type primers.

Etch primer included, epoxy primer is about the only bare metal primer you could leave a vehicle outside in without rust forming back under the primer quickly! Two-part epoxy primers go one step further by including zinc phosphate, which increases its corrosion-inhibiting properties. Simply put, epoxy is the best primer for bare metal, making it excellent for newly fabricated metal parts or ones that have been fully stripped.

Mixed Surfaces — Some primers and coatings need the entire surface to be uniform and all the same material. Epoxy primers have excellent adhesion properties and will stick to bare metal, paints, primers and fillers. Alternatively, you can apply filler or primer surfacer over the epoxy to fill any minor imperfections and block flat before you paint.

Stacking Coatings — Since epoxy primers adhere mechanically, they will grab onto most anything that has a good texture to the surface. Just abrade with sandpaper, apply your filler, sand flat and feather the edges.

Then you can apply more epoxy primer over top and repeat as needed. Simply reduce it 50 percent and lay a coat or two down to seal up all of your work and have a nice surface to lay your base coat over top of. The primer has excellent adhesion to most topcoats and will help keep actual paint from flaking or peeling. This is great peace of mind for a lasting paint job. This means you may have to push the project outside overnight or while you do maintenance on the daily driver.

Maybe you have a damp shop that flash rusts metal as soon as the temps change? I like to use epoxy primer to seal my work at the end of the day.If need to fix a leak quickly in a plumbing line, you can use epoxy putty. It is a handy way to repair pipes and fittings instead of cutting out the leaking pipe and soldering in a new fitting.

It is simple to use and virtually anyone with even limited do it yourself experience will be able to use epoxy putty to stop a leak. Follow these steps if you want to fix a leak with epoxy putty.

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Find the exact spot that is leaking. If is a slow water leak then dry the area and place a piece of paper towel over the suspected area. Remove the paper towel and inspect it for a wet spot.

Continue with this method until all leaks are found. Turn off the water to the house.

3 Ways to Use 2-Part Epoxy Resins

Turn on the faucets in the house. This will release the pressure from the plumbing lines. Sand the plumbing pipes with grit sand paper. The pipes must be clean, dry and free of all loose debris.

Copper lines must be shiny. Cut a section of epoxy putty from the tube with a utility knife. Kneed the putty with your fingers until it is completely mixed.

HOW TO USE EPOXY RESIN

You can tell when it ready to use by looking at the color. It will turn one solid color once it is mixed. Press the epoxy putty onto the pipe. Wrap the tubing completely and overlap at least one inch on each side of the leak. If the leak is in a fitting then cover the entire fitting with epoxy putty.

Use the epoxy putty with in 3 minutes from the time you mix it. This is important.Wet sanding with waterproof sandpaper is often the best approach to sanding cured epoxy. Wet sanding removes amine blush while you sand, reduces clogging of the sandpaper, and reduces dust and exposure to partially cured epoxy. It lets your sandpaper go farther and provides a visual clue that everything is properly sanded. However, if you have bare wood or wood that cannot get wet, you will need to dry sand.

Cured epoxy is difficult to sand because of its hardness. Epoxy cuts easiest after 24 hours of cure, but before 48 hours or more: it has cured enough to be cut, but has not reached full mechanical properties. In addition, cured epoxy can quickly fill sandpaper, rendering it ineffective after several swipes.

All room temperature cure amine-base hardening epoxies are susceptible to amine blush to some degree. Washing with water is effective for blush removal, but wet sanding is far more efficient for large areas. Water improves cutting performance by flushing cut material from the surface that can come between the abrasive surface and the substrate. Because cut particles are wet when sanded, wet sanding virtually eliminates airborne dust.

This reduces exposure to partially cured epoxy dust and thus is safer from a health and safety standpoint. Waterproof sandpaper is usually a closed coat, silicon carbide.

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Grits from 60 to are available, although you should only need 60 to 80 grit for initial abrasion, and to grit or maybe for final sanding prior to priming or varnish. If your cured epoxy has runs and irregularities, I suggest starting with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper. Wet sanding is normally done by hand. Never use an electric powered sander when wet sanding or you could get electrocuted.

We have used air-powered dual action DA machines for wet sanding which is messybut we usually sand by hand. I use a hard rubber sanding block like the one in the photo to hold the paper when smoothing and abrading most surfaces. A curved or soft pad may be necessary on curved surfaces, but you can wet sand without a block or pad by simply folding the cloth to fit your hand and dipping the paper in water.

I usually put water in a bucket. I dip the rubber sanding block with sandpaper attached into the water when more water is needed. Use a window squeegee to scrape excess water and cut material from the substrate so you can visually inspect the surface better.

When wet, the surface is shiny, but when squeegeed, it appears dull and highlights surface texture. When wet sanding, especially with aggressive grits, you have to keep an eye on your progress.

Rinse and squeegee away water between changes in grit to avoid contaminating the finer grit with the previous coarser grit. Rinse water should sheet evenly, without beading or fisheyeing. If rinse water beads up, wet sand again until the beading is eliminated. To prepare the surface for subsequent epoxy coats or painting, wipe the dry surface with a paper towel to loosen any remaining debris and then sweep it with a bench brush.

We use a tack cloth prior to painting, but not for subsequent epoxy coats because the tack cloth is resinous saturated cheesecloth which can contaminate the substrate and interfere with epoxy adhesion.January 16, Categorie s : GuideMost popular articles. You think a beautiful epoxy table can only be obtained from a professional?

Far from it! In the following tutorial we will show you in a step-by-step instruction and with a detailed list of the required materials, how you can produce such a tasteful table yourself.

The idea for these beautiful tables originated in the USA and started its triumphal procession all over the world from there. And not without reason: an epoxy river table is a small work of art that radiates luxury and modernity at the same time. So it fits into the living rooms of friends of rustic wooden furniture as well as in modern penthouse apartments.

Such a table simply cannot be put into any style drawer. The great popularity of Epoxy River Tables is probably also due to the fact that there are no limits to creativity. Rather traditionally designed tables with a neutral colour scheme can be found as well as exclusive, almost eccentric looking pieces in strong colours. The key to making a truly beautiful Epoxy River Table is to choose the right wood to be used. Here it is undoubtedly worth digging a little deeper into your pocket in favour of a good quality material.

After all, you want to put a lot of time and effort into your artwork and enjoy it for a long time. The wood used should be as natural as possible. Here, for example, a board made from a tree trunk that is at least 4 cm thick is a good choice. Alternatively, you can of course use two wooden boards from the DIY store, which are cut into a slightly curved shape on one side with a jigsaw.

Whether from a carpenter or from the DIY store: the most important thing is that the wood is well dried. You have two options for the preparation of the wood. Firstly, you can process the material itself. For this you need a circular saw and a planer to produce the right length and thickness and divide the wood in the middle.

On the other hand, you can of course also buy the boards in the desired thickness and length, or have your purchased piece of wood cut and planed to fit in a joinery. If you have little experience in processing wood, this is the much easier option.