Add the following snippet to your HTML:. A 3D-printed, open source, Arduino-based, Bluetooth-controlled, Scratch-programmable, six-legged robot built for games, education, and fun! Vorpal the Hexapod is an awesome 3D-printed Arduino project.
It's ultra low-cost, Bluetooth-controlled via a gamepad, and can also be programmed using the MIT Scratch drag-and-drop programming language.
It has a 3D-printed gamepad that can access 60 preprogrammed motions, and you can even program the buttons to perform your own custom actions using Scratch. The hexapod features an attachment system that allows you to design your own 3D-printed decorations and game attachments.
A bunch of games are already developed including Joust and Capture the Flag. I taught an honors robotics class and coached competition robotics teams for ten years at the high school level.
In my final year teaching I was the adviser in an independent study on walking robots, and the student and I worked on a very early prototype of a fully 3D-printed hexapod robot. Even that crude prototype evoked enthusiastic reactions from everyone who saw it, from adults to toddlers!
I knew this project could inspire people to learn more about robotics, 3D-printing, and Arduino programming. After a year of refining the project I commercialized it and launched it on Kickstarter. I set up an online store to supply the electronic parts and even the 3D parts for people who don't have 3D-printers. But you don't have to buy the parts from me, I made the entire project open source, from the 3D models STL posted on Thingiverse.
It's all there for your hacking pleasure! There have already been a number of extensions and mods posted by enthusiastic Vorpal fans.
This isn't a project you build, play with for 3 minutes, then stick in the bottom of your closet! It was designed from the start to be extensible and to enable tons of games and activities. The videos below show just a few of the activities we've documented on our wiki on the Hexapod Games and Activities page.
We are developing more activities all the time. But the beauty of the system is, you can design your own activities and attachments because it's all open source and 3D-printed. Brainstorm a new activity, design some custom attachments if needed, 3D print them, code up some custom extensions using Scratch. It's easy! Many people have already created their own 3D-printed mods and attachments, including things like stilts, a "mohawk" hairdo attachment, and lots more. That's the power of open sourcing a project like this.
Here are a few mods that have been posted. Please log in or sign up to comment. With a lot of inspiration from Boston Dynamics projects, I'm trying to make something great without million dollars. The Critter is a simple Arduino walking robot that is fully 3D printed. Project showcase by Slant Concepts.
Barbot is an open source Arduino cocktail mixing robot controlled with the hybrid mobile app via Bluetooth. Project showcase by sidlauskas. Step aside, an amazing six-wheel off-road robot coming through! Project tutorial by Jithin Sanal. Scriba is a printing robot which uses cameras to correct its trajectory and alignment.
Sign In. My dashboard Add project.GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together.
If nothing happens, download GitHub Desktop and try again. If nothing happens, download Xcode and try again. If nothing happens, download the GitHub extension for Visual Studio and try again. The screws and nuts are the 3M ones you can buy from your local hardware store. I used a 5mm acrylic sheet. Adafruit has good tutorials for how to wire the drivers and all with the Arduino and Raspberry Pi. You may have your servo controllers on different addresses, or your servos plugged into different ports.
You will also have to calibrate the min and max range of each of your servos, since these settings vary from servo to servo. These settings are all stored in the hexy. You should take a look at the base file here as it is implemented in a pretty straightforward manner:. You may need to edit lines 4 to 22 of this file and a bunch of other lines depending on the configuration of your Hexapod and if you are using a different frame or if you are using different I2C addresses.
Or you may need to edit many of the lines in this file. For example this is what patrickpoirier51 submitted as an issue:. Also equally important is the range of motion of each Joint which I've defined in line 87 of the Leg class.
The ankle has a range of motion from to 90 while the hip and knee's range is45 and50 respectively. I have a knee leeway of 10 degrees. Change these as you see fit. The easiest way to get this up and running, on your raspberry pi zero is to do the following on the terminal via ssh. If you want to control the angle of each Joint hipkneeankle for each Leg you'd want to instantiate a HexapodCore object:.
Whose three Joints you can individual pose using the pose command, for example:. Skip to content. This repository has been archived by the owner. It is now read-only. Dismiss Join GitHub today GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together.
Sign up. Python Shell. Python Branch: master. Find file. Sign in Sign up. Go back. Launching Xcode If nothing happens, download Xcode and try again. Latest commit. Latest commit a4f4dfc Jul 13, These tutorials are also good starting point to calibrate the minimum and maximum pulses of each of your servo which you'd have to do.Hexapod robots are one of the coolest robots to build, but they are usually quite expensive. One of the reasons is that they usually have lots of parts and use 18 servos, all of which need to be powered and driven by some microcontroller.
In this tutorial, I will show how to build your own Arduino hexapod, or Ardupod, by 3D printing all the parts and using only 12 servos to control the robot. Are you ready? As mentioned above, this particular hexapod only uses 12 servos to move six legs. That means we have only 2 servos per leg with 2 degrees of freedom DOF.
Compared to the usual 3 servos per legthis approach has several advantages. We will need less power to run the servos and less processing time to drive them. However, by removing one of the servos, we also sacrifice 1 DOF, so it might be more challenging to program the robot to crawl steadily. To compensate for missing one servo, all the legs must have a mechanical system that will translate the angular motion of the servo to linear motion of the leg.
You can see how this mechanism works on the following animation. As you can see in the video, a spring is included inside the mechanism. The main reason is to compensate for any inaccuracies caused during the printing process. The spring can also help achieve a more natural crawling motion as it gives greater support. You can get springs anywhere. Welcome to the most difficult part of this entire article: assembling the legs.
This is a fairly advanced project in both construction and programming. It will be assumed that those attempting to make this robot have basic skills with equipment like drills and soldering iron. When assembling the leg, always remember that you have to put a washer between every two plastic pieces that are supposed to move up and down. You will probably need to adjust the size of the holes with a drill; the bolts have to be able to rotate freely.
Please note that for every bolt we need two nuts. Figure 4. Connecting the leg joint: plastics black and metal light gray. This is extremely important to allow the entire support system to work. When assembling the legs, be sure not to have the bottom nut too tight and adjust it so that the plastic parts can still move freely.
Then, tighten the upper nut as much as you can. The bottom nut will ensure everything move freely, while the upper one keeps everything together. It you loosen the nuts too much, the legs will be very unstable.
If you tighten them too much, they will put unnecessary load on the servos. Adjusting the legs will probably take several attempts. In this case, however, the horn will be fixed in place so that when the servo moves, it will move itself, therefore moving the leg.
Make sure you use metal gear servos and not those with plastic gears!This Simple Hexapod Robot is more like a downgrade from my last robot. I originally thought Hexapod Robot are not easier, as they have 6 legs and therefore more complicated in the programming. Further modifications to the leg:. I have also wrote a few more commands files, works quite well ; see 3nd video from the top. I have a chassis in progress. Hi oscar i know its been along time since u made this but could u pls help me with the codeing for 12 servo hexapod like this.
So cute! What a very great build you did Oscar!!! You are also a clever DIY builder!!
11 DIY hexapod robots
This is what I like : When I will be less overbookedI will come back to the building of an automated armI did a kind of this for my end of school year : Actualy the stuff to build some of great things are more than affordable and DIY make this more affordable :. Thank you for publishing your work. I was wondering what type of connectors are you using to connect all the servos to the Battery Pack?
Are there any existing one-to-many connectors? I was trying to avoid building my own customized one. Hi Oscar, loving your work, what thickness styrene do you use for the hexapod? Cheers Mike.
First and foremost I want to thank you for sharing your work, this is really good. By the way, did you evaluate to use a servo controller to reduce the number of pins used by the Arduino?
Any thoughts on this area?MXPhoenix hexapod robot terrain test
But you might be better off using Lipo because they have larger current output and weights lighter. You can totally make a servo shield using standard Arduino Uno Shield and header pins. Hi Oscar, after a long vacation, I finally finished the structure of my hexapod, I give you pictures, what do you think? I would like to drive with a wii nunchuk. I congratulate you on your new topics on your blog, they are great!I will show you how to build an arduino hexapod robot, from building the body, to how to implement the algorithm.
To learn about the implementation of the algorithm, read this firstif you are not sure what is IK, read this.
I ordered parts from a robot frame manufacturer, but they will take a while to arrive. I wanted to make a servo interface with the shield I bought off ebay for Arduino Hexapod Robot, which would making it so easy to install the servos without making a mess.
Simple Hexapod Robot Using Arduino
In theory i could use 48 servos on a Mega board, but I only soldered 20 servo ports, just to keep wires tidy and compact. I need only 18 servos for the legs and possibly 2 for the sensors anyway. I am leaving some space on the right hand side of the board to put a adjustable voltage regulator in, as I am planning to use 8xAA batteries, or 3 lipo 11V batteries in the future.
Redesigned and made another base, with smaller diameter and larger thickness. Also there is another problem with responding speed. I then change all of them into float.
Arduino Mega Hexapod
I will need to think of a way to balance between accuracy and computational load. For more detail: Arduino Hexapod Robot. Submit Comment.
Spamcheck Enabled. Major Components in Project Arduino. Share this:. Leave a Comment Click here to cancel reply.This guide has information on installing and using the Arduino IDE to flash new versions of firmware on the Vorpal Hexapod and gamepad.
This guide does not assume you are familiar with Arduino programming, and it provides a step by step cookbook approach. To further explore Arduino, please see educational materials on the web, including at the Arduino websiteyoutube. It's available for Windows, Mac, and Linux.
Download the version for your system and follow the instructions to install it. This guide assumes you sourced the Nanos in your kit from the Vorpal Store. If you didn't, then you may have a different version of Nano than we're talking about here, and you would potentially need to slightly adjust what you do here. We assume that if you sourced your own parts, you known what you're doing. The code is available on Github search for Vorpal Hexapod and it pops right upbut for convenience we have stored the current tested and released version in a shared dropbox folder here:.
The Hexapod project code requires three libraries that are maintained by other organizations. These are open source and are free:. The versions we have tested with the current release are in the shared Dropbox folder referenced above. You may also go directly to the project pages for those projects if desired, a web search will bring them right up.
However, it's possible the libraries have been revised up to later versions that have not been tested by Vorpal Robotics. So, you are better off using the files that are posted in the shared folder. NOTE: Do not actually select any library from this list! Just look to see that they appear in the list. Selecting one or more from the list would insert extra header files that will cause the program not to compile.
This step is only required for MAC operating systems, and only if you plan on flashing the robot. The Nano we use on the robot has a serial port that requires the CHG34x driver on Mac operating systems. On Windows and Linux, this driver is almost always installed by default. Just be sure you have a live Internet connection before plugging the USB cord into the Nano on the robot in case Windows needs to find the driver online.
Follow the instructions in the folder. If the upload is successful, you will get a message "Upload is Done" near the bottom of the screen. If something went wrong, carefully follow the instructions a second time.This robot utilizes 12 servo-powered joints to walk on six legs in a spider-like fashion.
To mimic spider walking patterns, we programmed Hexapod to back up in a randomly decided left or right direction in the presence of an obstacle. Finally, to include the ability to communicate the state of obstacle detection with a user, Hexapod includes an 8x8 LED display to create a mood-dependent face that increases in happiness with the time elapsed since an obstacle was last detected.
These included aspects of our PWM generation, neopixels, and the ultrasonic sensor. Our current design does not make use of RF transmission currently, so it does not pose any danger of interfering with other projects. If we do plan to add RF in the future it will be a pre FCC approved esp module that is confirmed to meet certain interference mitigation requirements. It is also includes forward obstacle detection so it also does not pose the problem of physically interacting with any other designs.
Our final robot design has a very simple user interface. It utilizes two onboard pushbuttons: one for resetting the entire robot and one for beginning the walk sequence. The reset button cause the robot to initialize to a neutral upright position and a happy face display.
Upon pressing the start button, the robot begins to walk forward until it detects an obstacle. Pressing the reset button again causes the robot to resume its neutral, stationary stance. This very simple interface allows the robot to be operated and understood by almost anyone.
The design limiting factor for the base plate was the size of the PCB and the servos. The factor determining the shape of the baseplate is the number of legs.
While it is possible to develop quadra pod, we decided to design a hexapod as more legs would allow us handle more weight, and give us more flexibility when designing out walking algorithm. Because our design incorporated 6 legs, the base plate is a regular hexagon, a hexagon with the same side length all around. The drive shaft of each cylinder is place at the corners of the hexagon in order to evenly distribute load around the hexapod.
In order to reduce drifting to the side when walking, the weight is distributed as evenly as possible. The battery, PCB and ultrasonic sonic are placed in the center of the robot. The only exception to this is the middle pair of servos, where the housings of the servos are angled slightly. This was slight tilt will not significantly change the center of mass, and provides space for cable pass through on the longer dimension of the PCB.
More cable pass-throughs could be found at the front and rear of the baseplate close to the servos. As a result, the board has built in standoffs consisting of a large diameter cylinder to elevate the board off the baseplate, and a smaller diameter cylinder that would pass through the mounting holes of the PCB.
The smaller diameter cylinder was printed to be slightly larger than the PCB mounting hole so the friction between the standoff and the PCB would keep the board in place. In order to mount the servos, we measured the dimensions of the housing and utilized the screw holes as mounting points. The baseplate through holes are not threaded, so we use a washer on the other side of the base plate to secure the motor to the base plate.